I always know where to eat. I personally think finding the perfect restaurant is one of the best applications of my research and analytical acumen (if I do say so myself). And I decided to take those skills one step further and find the perfect culinary journey down the I-95 on the East Coast of America.
Everything was set. I would leave Friday night on President's Day weekend from my hectic life in New York City and spend the weekend driving the 1600-mile round-trip journey to and from Savannah, GA.
First Stop: Washington DC
Washington D.C. - capitol city of the US of A. Of course I had to make a pit stop here on my way down.
Spend some time with good 'ol Abe. If you have never been, I highly recommend a quick visit to the Lincoln Memorial at night. There is something so magical about the monuments at night. Maybe it is that there are less tourists, or maybe it's the way it's lit up I'm not sure.. but trust me it is a very different experience. And if you are anything like me, there is no better way to unwind from New York City life than catching up with old and new friends in the middle of the night, feet dangling off the edge of the grand Lincoln Memorial, having a good time.
First thing Saturday morning, it was on the road again. As a West Coast Girl, I highly recommend Philz Coffee before you head out. An Iced Mint Mojito if you like sweet and creamy in your coffee, or just a plain Philtered Soul if you're looking for something a bit stronger. It was just what I needed to start an early morning roadtrip down the I-95.
Second Stop: Richmond, Virginia
After a few hours of driving, we took a quick pit stop in Richmond, Virginia, capital city of the lovely state of Virginia for a coffee / late breakfast or early lunch. We decided on Whisk due to its close proximity to I-95 and let's be honest... the look of their freshly baked goodies (amazing). Their baked goods rivaled those in Paris and the decor inside is very fresh and brightly colored. If I could, I could see myself having brunch dates here or study sessions, but a quick drop-in to pick up a coffee and a sandwich was all just as good for me.
Alternatives: Other places I would have stopped by in Virginia for a quick snack would have been:
- The Early Bird Biscuit Company - known for their deliciously flaky biscuits and home-made pop-tarts.
- Sugar Shack Donuts & Coffee - The original one. Known for their bold and inventive donut menu (also they are rated in the Top 10 of American donuts)
Within an hour, it was off to the next city (we were already running on a tight schedule so we had to move quickly).
Before I continue, can I just say that I-95 is a beautiful stretch of highway. So relaxing especially on a sunny day when the sun peeks through the tree-lined roads and the highway curves ever so slightly every now and then. Coming off of a very hectic period of work, this drive was just what I needed to get away from my crazy hectic New York life.
Latta, South Carolina
Hours later, we found ourselves in South Carolina in a little town just south of "South of the Border" - called Latta. Yes, if those bright neon lights of this faux-Mexican style tourist attraction did not indicate that we were heading into the deep south of America, the beautiful sound of country music blasting in just about every channel on the radio definitely did. 'Murica.
First thing we did in Latta, South Carolina was to get some of that famed Carolinan BBQ. As an American abroad, I come across a Carolinan every now and then and North or South they always claim to me that their state has the best BBQ so it was really a no brainer when on my roadtrip down the I-95 that I would figure out for myself if their BBQ is really as good as they say it is. And if so, which state had it better.
Based on my limited understanding of Carolinan barbecue, the main difference between North and South is that Southern barbecue typically uses a mustard base, and Northern barbecue a vinegar base. And after thorough research, I discovered Shulers Bar-B-Que just off of I-95.
Modeled after an old-fashioned general store, Shulers has a buffet-style dining area where you can sample brisket, fried chicken, ribs, barbecue, corn on the cob, okra, etc. I have to be honest, I was afraid it would come off as too much of a tourist trap, Shulers was a delightful surprise in that it didn't feel like a gimmick. It was a southern foodie dream in this large wooden eating area with this beautiful buzz of people from nearby and far away chatting away. Kids run around the restaurant fundraising for their soccer teams, and you feel that charm of a family run business with family recipes. I am a long way from Manhattan and quite honestly loving it.
First thing we did in Latta, South Carolina was to get some of that famed Carolinan BBQ. As an American abroad, I come across a Carolinan every now and then and North or South they always claim to me that their state has the best BBQ so it was really a no brainer when on my roadtrip down the I-95 that I would figure out for myself if their BBQ is really as good as they say it is. And if so, which state had it better.
Based on my limited understanding of Carolinan barbecue, the main difference between North and South is that Southern barbecue typically uses a mustard base, and Northern barbecue a vinegar base. And after thorough research, I discovered Shulers Bar-B-Que just off of I-95.
Modeled after an old-fashioned general store, Shulers has a buffet-style dining area where you can sample brisket, fried chicken, ribs, barbecue, corn on the cob, okra, etc. I have to be honest, I was afraid it would come off as too much of a tourist trap, Shulers was a delightful surprise in that it didn't feel like a gimmick. It was a southern foodie dream in this large wooden eating area with this beautiful buzz of people from nearby and far away chatting away. Kids run around the restaurant fundraising for their soccer teams, and you feel that charm of a family run business with family recipes. I am a long way from Manhattan and quite honestly loving it.
Alternatives: Due to the timing of our roadtrip, we were unable to hit up another barbecue joint on our way down, but if you do have extra time or the timing is right, I would recommend the following based on my research
- Sweatman's Barbeque - authentic South Carolinan barbeque served in an old farmhouse a bit off of I-95 in Holy Hill, South Carolina.
- Lucky Duck Distillery - If you have some time, I've always been personally fascinated by the moonshining business so I also highlighted this distillery that produces moonshine in jars.
Savannah, Georgia
A full days driving later, we were finally in Savannah food coma'd out from eating so much barbecue and exhausted from all the driving. But, with country music still ringing in my ears and the beautiful taste of brisket still lingering in my tastebuds, I had one of the best nights of sleep of my life in Savannah - excited for a full day of Georgia living.
First stop, Starbucks because...duh. After a quick stop for iced coffee (because why not it's warm enough), we nipped over to Tybee Island for some R&R time with sunshine. Having just come from below freezing temperatures in New York City and driven for an entire day, words cannot describe how amazing it was to get to the beach in February, 70 degrees and sunny. Alright, alright, alright.
To track my journey, click here.First stop, Starbucks because...duh. After a quick stop for iced coffee (because why not it's warm enough), we nipped over to Tybee Island for some R&R time with sunshine. Having just come from below freezing temperatures in New York City and driven for an entire day, words cannot describe how amazing it was to get to the beach in February, 70 degrees and sunny. Alright, alright, alright.
I highly recommend Tybee Island if you have the time, there is something about the sprawling Georgia coastline beaches, it really leaves you alone with your thoughts. I could spend all day sitting on the benches looking out at the ocean, a worship service going on in the distance, and soft Georgia sand between my toes. Georgia, Georgia.. the whole day through... but alas we have so much of the city to see, and so little time.
Savannah! At last! We made our way to the city centre and came across quite frankly one of the most beautiful cafe / shops I have ever seen. Paris Market & Brocante located right in the city centre in the middle of all the action. Ordered ourselves affogatos and went straight into day-planning mode, leaflets, maps and city magazines in hand. It was important to us to keep the day itself feeling relatively unplanned. As much research as I had done to plan where we could eat, what we could do, the best way to not feel rushed when doing so much in such a small space of time was to ensure that we saw the main sights we wanted to see, and then leave the rest to be stumbled upon naturally.
The Dutch have a word for this kind of walking around: a wandel. To my knowledge it's like a stroll and a wander. And that is exactly what we did. wandel-ed around. Savannah is such a beautiful city to do this with its dramatic Spanish moss trees and beautiful city squares. The visitor center is a great place to start if you don't know where to go. The guide behind the desk at the visitor center handed me some pamphlets and then told me a beautiful story about the building across the way from their centre.
A lot of people don't know that Savannah is actually one of the older cities in the US and actually played an integral role in the slave trade. The guide pointed at a building that looked like any other building, and told me a story about how on the first floor, there was a butchers shop back in the day, and the second floor was where slaves were bought and sold in Old Savannah. He told me a story of how one man bought his freedom, took over the butchers shop, and actually started classes for slaves or newly freed slaves to learn. What a beautiful picture in my mind of how a place with such a sordid past was re-purposed into something so beautiful as educating those it used to enslave.
Must Visits in Savannah on a Time Crunch:
1. Forsyth Park: it's a bit of a trek from the Visitor Centre, but honestly it is so worth it. That beautiful fountain in the middle of the park, a trumpeter playing jazz in the background and a couple taking wedding photos on the side, very very cute.
2. Girl Scout First Headquarters: If you are as big a fan of the cookies as I am, this will be a no-brainer. Thin Mints for life!
3. Savannah Bee Company: YES. I discovered my love for the Tupelo tree that apparently only grows in Savannah. They had honey of all different flavours and my personal favourite Tupelo honey wine. Amazing - literally one of the best wines I've ever had. So sweet, so complex.
4. Byrd's Famous Cookies - It may be a tourist trap, but personally I totally bought into their IG worthy Georgia Peach cookies. Delicious and aesthetically unique. It's worth a drop in for a tasting.
5. Wander along the W to E River Street if you get a chance.
Being in the south of the US, my stomach immediately had a hankering for a good 'ol seafood boil.
Savannah Seafood Shack totally took care of that craving. Nothing makes my tummy happier than eating seafood, potatoes, and corn on the cob with my hands with that beautiful Old Bay Seasoning mix. It's a shame this tradition doesn't make its appearance up north as often. There's something so beautiful about eating with your hands at a communal table.
Dinner was a little more formal. We ate at the Olde Pink House - a beautifully sophisticated restaurant located in an old mansion. There was amazing service and beautiful ambiance. I got to try Fried Green Tomatoes for the first time with Applewood Smoked Bacon and Sweet Corn Cream. And for a main, I had the Pecan Crusted Chicken Breast with a Blackberry Bourbon Glaze, Sweet Potato and Pecan Vanilla Butter over Collards. Southern food at its finest. Amazing - sweeter than I am used to but delicious all the same. Suffice to say I did not have room for dessert. I was already on a sugar high. What a great way to end a full day in Savannah.
Other Food Suggestions
Unfortunately as we were there for only a day we could not go everywhere we wanted to go. Other suggestions of where to go are:
1. Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room - a traditional southern restaurant with good old Southern home cooking.
2. B. Matthew's Eatery - Beautiful eatery in Savannah - we would have come here for Brunch or Breakfast.
3. Leopold's Ice Cream - The best ice cream shop in town apparently and very popular! Local ice cream at its finest.
The next morning, it was back in the car and back to New York. One of the beautiful things about long road trips in the US are the amazing hidden gems along the highways. So despite being on a schedule, we managed to hit up some of these hidden gems. The most memorable of which was the Mars Bluff Atomic Bomb Impact Crater. That one time America dropped an atomic bomb accidentally on this man's house.
Other Pit Stops up I-95:
1. Santee State Park. A nice place to stretch your legs, go for a wee walk.
Fayetteville, North Carolina
Hometown of one of my favourite rappers J. Cole, a stopover in Fayetteville was a must in order to answer my burning question about which Carolina had better BBQ. If you can remember, Latta introduced us to the mustard-based South Carolina BBQ sauce, but here in North Carolina, I was ready to try the more vinegar-based sauce.
Nothing like some fried chicken, barbecue, collard greens and BBQ sauce and hot sauce. We chose to eat this lovely meal at Cape Fear BBQ and Chicken - also off I-95. And if you were curious, the answer to this question about which state had better barbecue... was that I love barbecue.
Alternatives in North Carolina
1. Fuller's Old Fashioned BBQ
There was some traffic on the way back but all in all - we made it down the coast and back up in three days. I answered some big life questions, I ate some of the best food, and I still had time to relax, driving lazily down the I-95 on a sunny day listening to country music.
The biggest takeaway from this was that yes - a seemingly quick getaway doesn't have to feel rushed if you plan out the logistics well. If you have a clear understanding that you will have to make trade-offs, and make plans accordingly. Also, as a foodie, making sure that you know where to get the good food or coffee in each neighborhood you plan to be in is really helpful in keeping the actual holiday relaxed. You know you will only be enjoying good food, but you aren't rushing from place to place. All in all, it was a great experience planning such a short holiday (and last minute might I add - I think we only decided to go the Wednesday before the Friday we left).























